Malaysia: Kuala Lumpur (KL)

Pretty much as soon as Michelle left, I was back on an MRT cross-island to pack for my weekend jaunt to KL. Due to bad taxi management, we managed to be late for the meeting at Kranji, and I nearly lost my phone. Thankfully everyone waited for me, and the taxi driver was honest.

So off I went, with my phone, and 29 of my closest friends (some the same as Langkawi, many new), to KL via JB and a 4hr coach ride.

This was my first real long-distance bus ride outside of school camps. It was fantastic. If only school camps had business-class coaches with reclining seats and leg rests. Apparently in the longer bus trips (8hr+), you are served refreshments!! It's like a plane trip without pressurisation problems. The only downside (aside from the time) is the temperature on the buses - its freezing!!!. We all brought jumpers, but that wasn't really enough. It was still cold. You have been warned!

I have a habit on this trip of arriving before my room is ready, and KL was no exception. We arrived at the hotel at 4:30am, to find reception closed till 7:30am! I found the nearest couch and slept soundly for 3hrs. Many others went to the pool and refreshed.

Day 1: KLCC; Batu Caves; Times Square; Lot 10; Chinatown; Beach Club.
We began our assault on KL early, queueing from 9am to get tickets to the Petronas Twin Towers. The Petronas Twin Towers, the official name for 'what was until recently the tallest buildings in the world', are definitely a must-do for tourists in KL. They are now referred to as the tallest twin towers in the world, and are definitely a point of national pride for the Malaysians. On the way up you are treated to a promotional video outlining such useful facts as the number of car park spots in KLCC (5400), and the percentage of local material used in the buildings' construction (60%). As you can see, it was riveting stuff, and definitely left you in no uncertainty as to why it was built - nationalism. It was, after all, constructed during the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis, at a time when every other ASEAN country was crying poor. Malaysia was as well, it just chose not to show it.

The view from the skybridge (the bridge linking the two towers, and the highest point the general public can reach) was again, a let-down, namely because of the weather. I can imagine on fine days it is unbeatable. From up there, KL looks just like any other modern, congested city - which it is. For me, it just wasn't enough - I wanted more culture, less shopping centres; more distinctly 'Malay' or 'Muslim' architecture, less bland office blocks. For that I'd have to wait until Sunday.

Our next stop was the Batu Caves, which are the main pilgrimage point in SE Asia for Hindus during the festival of Thaipusam. We visited it the week after Thaipusam, having seen the festival in Singapore, and there was still rubbish and remnants of kavadas scattered around the caves. Many people found that disconcerting, and, from a Singaporean perspective I can see why it would. At the time I didn't really pay much attention to it - I guess time spent in Denpasar and Bangkok desensitise you to congestion and rubbish. It's strange - I felt more at home in traffic jams in KL then I do on MRTs in Singapore. Well maybe not more at home, but at least the same. They remind me of being on holiday!!! Strange, huh! (For those of you reading this who don't know my history - I have been on holiday with my family three times to Thailand, twice to Indonesia, and once to Hong Kong).

The caves themselves were fantastic. The temples are sometimes carved into the rock, other times positioned in front of the enclaves. They clearly represent a focal point for Hindu's in the region, as my guide mentioned. When I post the photos it will have more meaning.

The rest of the afternoon was spent at various shopping centres, including the 'largest shopping mall in Southeast Asia' - Times Square. If a shopping centre could ever be considered too big, then BTS (Bertaya Times Square) would definitely be a finalist. It's massive!! 8 levels, one rollercoaster, no supermarket to speak of, and a million clothes stores - all selling the same things!!! Not to mention the 'entertainment centres' selling fake DVDs. Where we were staying, KL Plaza, was located in Lot 10 - another big shopping complex, with one hotel, and two shopping centres on the one block. It had a great food court in the basement, and an Isetan (Japanese department store).

The real shopping began in Chinatown that night. We walked down Petaling St (KL's Pagoda St), and realised immediately why people say KL is fantastic for shopping. Every stall had cheap, good quality fake clothes, DVDs, perfume, handbags, shoes...the lot! I think perhaps Bangkok's Pratanum Market maybe outdoes it for space and variety, but I like the 'crush' of a busy market, so it did it for me. Purchased enough to keep me happy - 3 Polo's and 3 Billabong t-shirts for RM99 (about A$30, S$50!), and some Hugo Boss Dark Blue (yes, Michie, that's 'my smell') for RM20 (about A$8). The single most popular item purchased was the Tiger Beer t-shirts - which I think will be replaced by Singha Beer ones after everyone comes back from Thailand! We are so predictable!

Saturday night was spent at Beach Bar, on the main clubbing street in KL (I don't know what its name is). Hmm....the less said about this place the better I think. The covers band were laughable - no one should attempt to cover Metallica, please!, and the atmosphere was ... interesting. It was a meat market, as someone delicately put it. Seedy old Western men with underage Malay girls. Not exactly the best club I've been to, but with 40 of us there, we made our own fun. Got to bed at some ridiculous time in the morning - 4am I think.

Day 2: National Mosque, Central Market, KL Railway Station, Merdeka Square.
Sunday was far more cultured than Saturday - mainly because we were all bored of shopping, and wanted to see a more Malaysian side of KL. We began our journey at the National Mosque - a geometrical masterpiece (Muslim art cannot depict human form, so it must be abstract - hence all the shapes). It was closed for visiters, but just walking around the building was great. Everything had 8 sides and 5 levels - representing the eight states of Malaysia, and the 5 pillars of Islam. Even the Petronas Towers have this - 5 distinct sections, and if you look at the buildings from above, they form an 8-sided star. Interesting, huh?

Our next stop was Merdeka Square (Indpendence Square) - a large expanse of green in the middle of KL. It's really nice, except there is no shade at all. I think it could be a lot more, but there are more pressing things on the minds of those in power. Like transport, and the economy, and health, and education, and well ... everything else. Merdeka Square also has SE Asia's tallest flag pole. They are obsessed with having the " 'est " aren't they!!

From there we walked (in the midday sun I might add) to the Central Market (well initially what we thought was the Central Market, and ended up just being another few clothes stalls) with all the native arts and crafts in all their touristy glory, and across to the old KL Central Railway station. Usually railway buildings don't do it for me, but this one did. The main building, and the railway offices opposite are both Muslim-style buildings, and just look so distinct against a backdrop of modern skyscrapers. This was exactly what I was looking for!

Then it was back to KL Plaza, and packing...two very busy days were over. I feel like I've definitely learnt from going to KL, and I'm really glad I went. But I'm also glad I went for two days, and not a week...I would have to leave and go somewhere else.

As I've said many times, I could live in Singapore, I couldn't in KL.