Feb 2005

SINGAPORE - BANGKOK

Our whirlwind 24 hours in Bangkok began with our arrival at Don Muang Airport at around 1am. We caught a cab from the airport to about 2kms down the road (because he wouldn't use the meter - something I forgot to confirm before getting in, silly Tristan!), and then another one to our hostel - well at least near our hostel. We stayed at Hostel Thailand (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php?HostelNumber=6708) , a relatively new hostel in Patpong. At least, no one knew of its existence, either at the airport, or in our taxi. We wandered around the alleys and main road around Rama IV for about 10minutes until we saw its tiny sign and the steps leading upstairs. This was to be my first experience really backpacking with a group of friends - none of us had stayed here before, there were no *adults* or leaders amongst us, and it was refreshing. Not that I don't enjoy my comfort and planning, I just appreciated "roughing it" for a bit - hahaha!

The hostel itself is very very clean. The rooms are tiny, however, and offer nothing more than a bunk - not even a power outlet as we discovered when Nina tried to charge her phone. By this time though, it was around 2am, and we were all just tired, and decided to wake around 9am so as to make the most of our only day in Bangkok. This was the only time we would use communal bathroom facilities on the trip, however even they were fine, if a little small! (In Thailand the toilet and shower are together in the same room, and there was precious little space between them – thank goodness for toilet seats!)

DAY TWO - BANGKOK
Our day began with a trip to Hua Lamphong Train Station (the central train station in Bangkok) to purchase our train tickets the following day to Aranyaprathet (on the Thai side of the border with Cambodia). To get there, we took the brand-new Thai subway system from Si Lom station (at the junction of Silom Rd (where our Hostel was located) and Rama IV Rd).

This was to be the first of 5 forms of transport we took that day! The others were the Skytrain, Tuk-tuks, Taxis, and a boat down the Chao Praya River. The subway was very non-descript, just like the Singapore MRT really – clean, efficient, sterile. The only difference was that the Bangkok subway (known as … guess … the Bangkok MRT) was absolutely empty. For about 5 minutes we were the only people on the platform, and in such a cavernous underground space, that feels quite strange. I’m sure that this was partly because we were travelling at 9:30 in the morning, which is after the business rush, and before the shops open, however I’ve read that the passenger numbers have dropped dramatically since the collision earlier this year. For the sake of Bangkok’s congested-beyond-belief roads, I hope more people begin to use the MRT, although it would help if it actually went somewhere useful!

Our trip to Hua Lamphong turned out to be completely useless, as we discovered when we tried to purchase tickets and were told that the tickets were all third class for that train, and therefore we could only buy them on the day. Ah well! At least we knew where the train station was. From there, we spent the rest of the day shopping, visiting the MBK centre for 4 hours or so (8 levels of air-conditioned market stalls can do that to you!), before having lunch at the hawker centre there. I finally had real pad-Thai, well at least, Pad Thai in Thailand.

From there, we visited the Government Handicraft Centre, opposite Central World Plaza (the old World Trade Centre), and Bernd and Nina attempted to change their Singapore dollars into US dollars unsuccessfully. Eventually a small store next to the Handicraft Centre did it – no one else seemed interested in taking Sing dollars and giving US, rather than Thai baht – even the banks!

The only tourist sight we got to visit was the Chao Praya River (75baht each, which was a complete rip-off, but hey, its S$3!). It was decided that as Bernd and Andy were going back later in the semester, and I had already been there twice, we would just take a barge tour down the river. At least doing this gave us all a chance to see Bangkok and its many contradictions – from the opulent Royal Palace to the decrepit apartment blocks to the skyscrapers to the pole-houses built along the riverfront, Bangkok is a city with many faces. Each one of these faces is interesting in its own right, and has produced a city unlike no other. Whilst I don’t think I could ever live there (although no doubt, with my current thinking, I probably will!), it remains my favourite city in Southeast Asia.

Dinner was spent with Christof and his girlfriend, Dorothy at a Muslim restaurant behind Pratanum market, and it was really nice. We looked totally out of place sitting in a distinctly local Muslim hangout, but that was fine – the 6 of us are imposing regardless of the situation! Despite never finding Pratanum market (I should have just got a cab – all this public transport nonsense!!), we spent the next few hours at Patpong market (after an interesting tuk-tuk ride with all 6 of us aboard!) which was very conveniently located a short walk from our hostel.

Whilst Patpong is known for its seedy side, we had a fairly tame time. No sex shows involving ping-pong balls for us this time, although we did find the gay clubbing scene in Bangkok. Instead, we walked the length of the market (probably 500-600m along a footpath crammed with people) and down some of the sidestreets.

Arriving back at the hostel, financially poorer but culturally far richer, at 12:30am, we met with Christelle (CA), Kristin (US) and Carol (CA) from NUS, who would be our travelling partners for the next stage of our adventure.

This past week has been crazy! We are leaving tonight for Cambodia, a trip that has been planned, and re-planned and discussed incessantly for the past few weeks! It's been nuts, and a whole lot of fun.

However, this week has also made me realise *finally* that I am here to study as well as party and travel, and so I've been a little bad a left a few assignments to the last minute.

It began last Sunday with a walk around campus and the surrounding area with the local environmental group - the Kent Ridge Heritage Walk. It was a fascinating look at the history of the area – which was the site of the last battle of the Malay regiment in WW2 against the Japanese. The fact that we were there on the anniversary made it all the more special. That, and we discovered our campus has bunkers from WW2 hidden behind a water tank! How many uni’s can claim that! That night we went out for Kiran’s birthday dinner at Holland V(illage), the local expat hangout. Very nice Indian food! Happy 23rd Kiran!

Tuesday night, however, was not a time for celebration, as we saw Hotel Rwanda at the cinemas. I haven’t seen a film like that since Schindler’s List, and none of us left dry-eyed. The film was so powerful, and so moving, it really makes you want to do something and stand up against all the injustices in the world. I was almost speechless after seeing it, and for me, that is quite an achievement.

The past few days, Shirley, Tim, Aruni and I have been discussing setting up an 'Australian' stall for the International Fiesta to be held at NUS yesterday and today (where I got to finally see a dragon dance!). It didn't eventuate, but it did mean we finally went to Aussimart - the only store to sell Vegemite in Singapore - however it was shite! Really small, and with only one or two items of interest, we left having bought nothing. It was a letdown really - we had built it up (having walked past it many times when it was closed) to be this amazing store, and a cure for all our intermittent homesickness - but no, it was just a small store selling very little of interest.

However, back to the main topic: my Uni work. This week I had two large assessments due, and I needed to study for a midterm exam (which is on two days after we return from Cambodia!). Suffice to say, it was a difficult week, and I don't think my essay (for one of my history subjects: Colonial Indochina) is entirely up to scratch - but hopefully my Prof. won't notice. The tutorial presentation (for SE Asian studies - on migration) went really well, as that was today.

I feel so relieved now to have those two over - my first real test of studying in another country and I think I may have just made it. At least they were all done and handed in on time!

Now, it’s off to the airport and Cambodia!

Ciao!

For many exchange students, CNY represented too good an opportunity to miss. For most (including myself) it meant 5 or 6 days off in a row, with no tutorials or assignments due.

However, I decided to experience CNY here, and catch up on Uni work and readings etc... Travel has taken its toll on my uni work, and I need to do more than the bare minimum as my grades are transferred (for many of the Northern Hemisphere students, esp. the Americans there work is taken as a pass/fail!)

So...as there were a few of us remaining in Singapore, we made the most of it, visiting Istana (the Preisdent's House on Orchard Rd), having a 'reunion dinner' with a local family, and watching the firecrackers and fireworks from Chinatown itself on NYE.

Chinese New Year is celebrated in Singapore with a two-day holiday. The holiday revolves around spending time with your family and relatives, particularly if you haven't seen them in a while - hence the many full flights, and the importance of Taiwan-China flights around this time.
We (Jane, Mike, Brandy and myself) spent Tuesday night (New Years Eve) at Jane (from Canada)'s Aunt's apartment enjoying reunion dinner, and learning to play Mahjong (Chinese 'pairs' game basically). It was great - the variety and amount of food was unbeliveable, and I tried many types of fish and meat (including cow and pig stomach) that I would never have otherwise eaten. (At least its preparing me for grasshoppers and spiders in China!). Got to practice some of my limited Chinese and visit my first HDB apartment. Thanks Jane!

Reunion dinner ended around 10pm, so we made our way to Chinatown, along with 500,000 other Singaporeans, and wedged ourselves in the crowd to count down New Years. Despite the numbers, it seemed remarkably quiet compared to Sydney NYE crowds, where by 10pm you may as well stay at home because its so packed.

The firecrackers which followed the countdown (done in Chinese! - Shi, Jiu, Ba, Qi, Liu, Wu, Si, San, Er, Yi) are a tradition, however I don't think they've been used in Singapore for many years - and only now has the ban been lifted! I am not too sure why they'd ban such an obvious part of the celebrations, but hey, this is Singapore, the land where you can be fined for spitting, but having 10 people sitting in the back of a pickup truck is fine!

At midnight, after some of the crowd had dispersed, we followed a mass of people around the streets of Chinatown to do some last-minute CNY shopping. We picked up a box of Mandarins for half-price (still overpriced compared to normal!), some sticky cake, and bubble tea along with admiring the tackiness of it all. It's just like Christmas - again!

Wednesday, the first day of the new year, is a day of new beginnings - so the Chinese are expected to have a new haircut (they can't cut their hair in the first three weeks of the new year, as its bad luck), and wear an entirely new outfit. This is the day when they visit all their relatives, and the kids pick up Ang Pao (red packets - containing money). I spent Wednesday at home, and saw Seoul Raiders, a Korean-Hong Kong action comedy, along the style of Charlie's Angels. Very poor, but it knew it was being stupid, so it was ok!

Thursday was our visit to Istana ('Palace' in Malay), the President's residence near Dhoby Ghaut station on Orchard Rd. This place is MASSIVE! It covers a block from Orchard Rd to City Hall. It's only open on selected public holidays every year, and we got to wander around the grounds (just like Government House in Sydney) and selected rooms in the house. Apparently, in the afternoon President Nathan and his wife came out to greet visitors, but we had left by then

And that was it, Chinese New Year Singapore-style!

Wow! How time flies...this is nuts! My blog posts are, well, firstly delayed, but secondly organised based on the trips I make away from Singapore! I knew I would travel, but not this often! Ah well, you only get a chance like this once, right? The money can work itself out later.

Sandwiched in the two weeks between my weekend in KL, and my big mid-term break in Cambodia was Chinese New Year (my first in a Chinese-majority country), Kiran and Doreen's birthdays, and the NUS International Fiesta! Plus my first assessments (one for SE Asian studies, and one for History). It started relatively quiet...and then rapidly accelerated until the day we left for Cambodia I was majorly stressing! But more on that later...

Tuesday, February 1st, 2005.
Tonight we went to dinner with my host father. The Host Family programme is one established by NUS to help exchange students, however as with many things, it has its limits. Basically, the program involves each student being paired with a local 'parent', with the aim being they take them out to the non-touristy attractions and places, and show them a side to Singapore that would otherwise not be known. Since signing up for the program when I arrived, I have only been out once with my host father - Prof Albert Teo - and this level of meeting seems quite normal. Many have only been out once. Whilst it would've been great to have seen him more and done more, everyone knows how busy we all are - because after all, we are not just here on holiday.

Regardless, thanks Albert! It's been great! He took us to Muthu's, an Indian restaurant owned by the brother of the owner of the Apollo Banana Leaf restaurant 2 doors down!. It turns out they worked together until about 30 years ago, when they had an argument and began operating competing restaurants. Having eaten at both now, I can say its a neck-and-neck race - both are SOOO good! Although Muthu's has just undergone a refurbishment and looks really nice. Definitely wins points for style. No more banana leafs though

So, back to the evening. Faruuk (Bosnian, studying in the Netherlands), Martin (Hungarian, studying in the Netherlands), Albert and myself headed off to Racecourse Rd. Once there, an ex-student of Prof Teo's came up and said hello - something which would rarely be done at a Uni level in Sydney I think. Or maybe not. I dunno - I would do it with my year 12 teachers, but I don't think I would with Uni lecturers etc... - they wouldn't know me for a start!

We ate fish head curry (!) - the first time for us exchange students - and it was really tasty. Not too spicy (we specifically asked for it mild), and really juicy. Definitely a must-try. Just don't eat the eyes - leave that to the locals! We also had vegetables, and an assortment of curries. All of it was far more authentic (as far as I have been told) than Sydney Indian food, and so cheap too! Even better.

We then went for a walk through the red-light district of Little India - somewhere that I didn't even think existed. Well, it does! In all its un-subtle glory. One moment you are walking down a seemingly innocent busy street, full of money changers and food stalls, and then you turn left down a back alley and end up in a distinctly different world. Compared to the almost-clinical Signapore portreyed in shopping centres and Orchard Rd, this is something else. We almost called it un-Singaporean, but of course, that's nonsense. ALL of Singapore is Singapore, and it's this variety that makes it so special.

The alley (Deskar Rd if you're interested) is just a very simple street, with red lanterns hung above all the (open) entrances to the brothels. As you walk along, you can peer in and see the ladies 'available' - the idea being you can see before you buy, so to speak. Apparently this street exists to serve the migrant workers mostly, with the 'quality' being lower than the other red-light district of Geyleng.

Wednesday, February 2nd, 2005.
No clubbing for me tonight - need to budget now! KL ate too much money

Instead, I went to two cultural performances held on campus. Tonight made me realise how un-cultured USyd is, and also, how busy NUS is at night - even so early in the semester. It just seems to be far more lively come 5pm+, at a time when USyd just dies. I still can't pin it down to one, or a few, reasons, but I think it has something to do with regular and efficient transport leaving the Uni till 11pm, and a general desire to study and stay at the libraries to do so, until late in the evening. I'm presuming living in apartments adds to the quest for space - which NUS' libraries have in abundance.

So, instead of my regular diet of Dinner-->Procrastination-->Clubbing-->Cheese Prata-->Waking up at midday on Thursday, I went to the pre-Chinese New Year (CNY) presentation at PGP, and a Thai Dance performance by a group from a Thai University.

Both were really interesting - and for different reasons. The CNY presentation was given by some local students, as was more an inidication of Singaporean presentation-styles, than it was about CNY - but that's cool. As a result, I met Pavi, an international student here who runs iCare - a program similar to ADG or UniMates at USyd. We talked about the similiarities and differences between volunteering in our two countries, and how Uni students respond. As may seem strange there are far more similiarities than differences.

Back to the presentation: we went through the various rituals and traditions associated with CNY, and the various Singaporean touches - such as Bak Kwa (glazed pork). We then gave two mandarin oranges to the person next to us, and learnt the standard CNY greetings: Xin nian kuai le / Gong xi fa cai. Which translates to: Happy New Year / May you be very prosperous!

At the Thai Dance performance, we were treated to some really beautiful, fluid dances performed by students our age! It felt far more real than those I've seen at hotels and tourist attractions in Thailand, and it demonstrated the different styles and motions of Thai dance through about 10 dances. It was great to be able to see performances like that - I really think USyd should start promoting local and regional performances on its grounds. I'd definitely go.